Question by AJ: Does it really matter if I use trackbed with HO model railroad tracks (Code 100)?
I was deciding on whether or not to get some track bed because I’m getting some things that involve trackwork for Christmas. I was debating and decided to ask the people of Yahoo Answers for this. So, if roadbed really does make a difference, what would be the best brand and/or type to go with? Also, what would I want to do about a bridge because I’m planning for a bridge on my layout? Would I just cut if off at the bridge section, or bring the roadbed through the bridge? Please let me know if I need to add details. Thanks for your input, A.J. (Gonfiantini)
Answer by PM Railfan
well roadbed is nice. gives you a base to not only lay track, but also to give a shape to ballasting it. however it is totally not required. ive always used Atlas roadbed and never had a problem with it. as far as your bridge goes youll want to end the roadbed. i wouldnt carry it across the bridge. it wouldnt look right and in most cases ( depending on the type of bridge ) you wouldnt need it. a stone arch would use it as opposed to an open girder type which wouldnt. actually some real bridges you can see right thru the tracks down below. remember, its not the ballast that supports the track. as bridges prove. its the roadbed under the ballast. but in model railroading that support is not required at all. its mostly for sound deadening and looks. somefolks actually lay track right on homasote or other soft sound deadening media.
What do you think? Answer below!
Question by : HO model railroad questions about Shinohara code 100 turnouts?
1) Are these turnouts compatable with Atlas code 100 track?
2) Do these turnouts snap back and forth like a Peco switch does?
3) What is the difference between the #4 and the #6 double crossover turnouts? Does one have a little bit tighter radius than the other, or is one unit longer than the other? It’s a little bit hard to tell by just looking at the photograph.
4) Are these good quality turnouts?
Thanks. Any answers will be greatly appreciated. I already have different size Atlas and peco switches, but this crossover turnout is a great idea and would sure save a lot of work and time, and I’d be able to use my regular switches somewhere else..
Answer by AJ Gonfiantini
I’m not sure about the second question because I don’t own a Shinohara switch/turnout, but I have the flex track and it is fine with Atlas Code 100 track. To preven derailments I solder the rails together. I would assume it’s a tighter radius. The Walthers flex track is ok, but I would think the switches are good too.
Know better? Leave your own answer in the comments!
Morse Code Straight Key J-38 by Lionel
Image by Whiskeygonebad
The undebelly of a J-38 with a logo that looked strangely familiar to me. Lionel Trains??? Yes!! Many companies "retooled" for the WW2 effort and it was natural for them to make this key. This key also came in a pilot’s version with a leg strap. Minolta D500 in macro-zoom flash available light 1/18sec f4.7
Morse Code Straight Key J-38
Image by Whiskeygonebad
This J-38, manufactured by LIONEL TRAIN Co during the common factory "repurposing" of WW2. It was in very, very sorry looking condition before restoration but all the parts were there, most importantly. Restored using dental lab equipment at work. Iron & Brass ultrasonically cleaned and high polished. Iron pits rubber-wheeled first. Metal Center Hub sand blasted and painted semi-gloss black. All metal/brass varnished with q-tip applicator. Bakelite was water and compound ragwheel polished on denture polishing machine Under key: Two-decade-old 13th editon of the Radio Amateur’s World Atlas. WW2 pilots used an upper leg clip on version to send morse code while flying. And you have trouble driving with your cell phone.
Minolta D500 flash and incandescent available light mix @ 1/20sec.
J-38 parts listing: