Pop Pilgrims – Memphis: Arcade Restaurant – Set of Jim Jarmusch’s Mystery Train

Billing itself as “Memphis’ Oldest Café,” The Arcade Restaurant has been at the corner of Memphis’ South Main Street and GE Patterson Boulevard since 1919. Just steps away from the train station, the restaurant has seen its surroundings rise, fall, and rise again with the fortunes of the city. Once the bustling heart of Memphis’ downtown, the neighborhood around the Arcade fell into decline in the 1970s and ’80s. By the time Jim Jarmusch arrived to shoot his 1989 film Mystery Train, hard times had overtaken what had become an especially seedy part of town. But as Sherman Willmott—who worked as a production assistant on the film—tells us in this installment of Pop Pilgrims, the Arcade remained a “beacon” through it all, serving up reliably delicious food 24 hours a day in a classic diner setting. Besides, the surrounding seediness suited the needs of Jarmusch’s film. With overlapping stories that converge at the dilapidated Arcade Hotel—torn down shortly after Mystery Train shot there—it’s a film partly about how the legends of the city’s past intersect with the everyday present, and how newcomers sometimes have trouble discerning the mundane from the mythic. In a neat twist, Jarmusch’s decision to shoot in Memphis’ less-reputable corners had an unexpected impact on the city’s onscreen life. A plaque commemorating “Modern Filmmaking In Memphis” now stands outside the restaurant, hailing Mystery Train, the first major feature to shoot primarily in the city since King

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